Broken key extraction

Keys snap for a reason: they're worn down, they were turned at an angle, or the lock cylinder is binding. Whatever the cause, the broken half stuck inside the lock has to come out before any new key will work.

What not to do

• Don't push the broken half deeper. If you shove it in with another tool, it can drop into the lock body where it's much harder to retrieve.
• Don't try to glue it back together and turn it. The repair almost never holds and you'll just snap a second piece off inside.
• Don't drill the lock as a first move. Drilling destroys an otherwise fine cylinder and turns a $80 fix into a $300 lock replacement.
• Don't use a magnet on most modern keys. Many car and house keys are made of brass or nickel-silver and aren't magnetic.

What we actually do

We use thin extraction tools — broken-key extractors and probes — to grab the inside edge of the broken piece and walk it back out without disturbing the wafers or pins. With most car ignitions, house deadbolts, and padlocks, the piece comes out in a few minutes and the lock is fine.

Where this happens most

• Car ignitions — usually a worn key plus a worn cylinder. After extraction we often recommend an ignition rekey.
• House deadbolts — old keys, frozen locks in cold snaps, or warped doors that bind the cylinder.
• Padlocks — outdoor padlocks that have rusted internally.
• Mailbox locks — small wafers that wear keys quickly. We can also replace the mailbox lock in the same visit.
• Filing cabinets & desks — small cam locks that snap easily.

After extraction

Pulling the broken half out is only half the job. If the original key snapped because it was worn, the next key you cut from a worn original will start the same cycle. We can:

• Cut a fresh key by code (not from the worn original) so you start with a clean copy.
• Rekey the cylinder so all your keys match again.
• Replace the cylinder if it's worn past saving.